Malmesbury has lots to offer the visitor including the Abbey, the tomb of the first King of all of England, and the architecture on this hilly plot that reflects a town claiming to be the oldest borough in England (charter granted by Alfred the Great). It also has an obsession with good food and a number of spectacular pubs in which to find same. We chose the Smoking Dog, an 18th century watering hole, for the name but the pastrami, mustard crème fraîche, and homemade baguette sandwiches did not disappoint.
There were three ales on, and only one was from Brains, the Reverend (odd and sad, as this is a Brains house). Still, the guest bitter I had (and promised not to forget the name of) was hoppy and dark and nearly the perfect substitute for an S.A., my first choice. The pub dogs, by the way, did not appear to be smokers.